A Fresh Taste of the Salty Sea
by Kathy Morton & Debra Fioritto
Oysters! These small delights are synonymous with the port of Cancale, a typical Breton fishing village, situated among ancient boulders and surrounded by flora and fauna of the countryside. Years ago, the flat oyster became popular and made Cancale a symbol of the finest oyster - so much so that in 1845 over 10,000 tons of oysters were harvested and sold throughout France. Eventually, with the environmental depletion of the natural beds, the people of Cancale began to farm flat oysters. Now the Cancalaise cultivate creuse (concave) oysters which are less sensitive to disease and temperature fluctuations.
What makes these oysters so special? The pure water of the bay, bien sûr.. In contrast to other parts of France, pollution has never interrupted the cultivation of oysters here. They are featured in all the best restaurants in Paris and throughout France, but the best place to taste them is here at the source, in Cancale. At this capital "Site of Exceptional Culinary Taste," the oysters - pulled directly from the bay - are displayed all along the quai. After a stroll along the beach, or a leisurely sail in the bay, you can walk along the main rue of the port and choose a special spot to sit and sip a verre of Muscadet while savoring a dégustation of this luxurious treat. The oyster of Cancale has a pronounced seasalt flavor with a nutty aftertaste and it goes well with a dollop of the rich creme fraiche Normande - Cancale prides itself on being in the region of blue Bretagne, but it's situated along the border of Normandy and Brittany, so the naturally delicious Normand creams blend nicely with the local seafood cuisine.
Cancale is "where the sun and the moon put rhythm into the oyster farmer's work," according to Celine Maisons, President of the local association of the Sites Remarquables du Gout in Cancale. The creuse oysters are raised in a 400 hectare park in the bay of Cancale and are harvested at the rate of 3,000 to 4,000 tons each year. The baby oysters are placed in pouches of fine netting which are changed as the oysters grow. The pouches are regularly turned so that the oysters may grow correctly. After three to four years they are harvested, washed and graded by size. About 12 years ago, the flat oyster was re-introduced into the deeper part of the bay. The spat is sowed and watched regularly by deep sea divers who take care of the beds. Then the oysters are harvested with fishing nets. As it ages, the oyster becomes heavy and thick and its form changes into a characteristic shape of a horse's hoof. These are called pied-de-cheval oysters. A 15 year old Cancalaise oyster can weigh up to 2.2 pounds and is eaten with a knife and fork!
Come experience these delectable delicacies firsthand! Join us on our October culinary adventure to Brittany and Normandy. Walk along the coastal path that weaves its way for almost six miles to Grouin Point, overlooking the entire bay of Cancale. You'll learn why Cancale has the designation, "Site of Exceptional Culinary Taste."
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