No. 9. Summer 2009


A Salina Caper
by Melissa Joachim



Last month I got to explore the Aeolian archipelago, a group of seven small islands north of Sicily. It's a fascinating destination that bustles with tourists in the summer; but they're sleepy enclaves during the rest of the year. I fell in love with the volcanic island of Salina. Lush and green, its natural beauty is extraordinary and there is a nature reserve set up to protect its two extinct volcanoes. But Salina is most famous for its wild capers. These spiny Mediterranean shrubs with their beloved flower buds, cover the island.

In June, the island hosts a weekend celebration* of its wild capers. Salina capers are revered for their firmness, perfume, uniformity and organic nature. Their devotees argue they are the best in the world and cherish the opportunity to eat them in season and in situ.

Whenever you see a dish called Aeolian, it is bound to contain capers. They are a defining ingredient of the region's cuisine. All Salina capers are packed in sea salt and a trip to the salt lake at Lingua will help you understand, both how the island acquired its name, and how the perfect combination of caper and salt crystals came about. Until the advent of tourism, the caper was the crux of the island's economy. However that is threatened from competition of cheaper and inferior North African produce.

Besides the ubiquitous capers, there are plenty of other taste treats to sample and enjoy. Carlo Hauner's Malavasia delle Lipari provides the best version of the island's delicious dessert wine and Alfredo's bar serves fresh fruit granitas. September is a great time to visit because the Malvasia grapes are ripe. They dry in the sun for 15 days to sweeten and leave a fragrance in the air.

And for a feast for the eyes don't miss Pollara - one of the most beautiful places on Salina. Positioned just above dramatic white ash cliffs with clear views across Pollara Bay to smoldering Stromboli. Arrive early to enjoy the scenery and you will see why it was chosen as the setting for the home of the poet in exile, Pablo Neruda, in the award-winning film Il Postino.

If you want to fall in love with Salina, accommodation and travel advice can be organized through Tour de Forks at info@tourdeforks.com

The Salina Isola Slow* is held annually from Friday morning to Sunday night during the first weekend in June.

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Cape Town & Cape Malay Food
by Anita Lo,
Chef/Owner Annisa Restaurant, NYC

I have always said that all cuisines are fusion cuisines. Even the most classical of cooking can have its roots traced to the influences from other groups: French and Chinese techniques and spice in Vietnamese cuisine, or North African accents in the food of Southern Italy. In France alone you see the Germans in Alsace and the Italians in Provence. Much like language, food is a living, breathing and ever-evolving being that picks up the accents of the people doing both the cooking and the eating.

So when we went to South Africa this spring, I was curious to see what kinds of food and influences were cooking there, which, like the United States, is home to many cultures. The trip was a five-day whirlwind - a reconnaissance overview for Lisa, Melissa, and I to develop a Tour de Forks trip that I will be leading there in the Fall of 2010. Our time was spent in Cape Town and touring the adjacent wine country where we found many fine dining meals of world cuisine using local South African ingredients. But Cape Malay cuisine was new to me, and it provided some of the most exciting and tastiest food of the entire trip. More


The Sites of Exceptional
Culinary Taste: A Fresh Taste of the Salty Sea



Oysters! These small delights are synonymous with the port of Cancale, a typical Breton fishing village, situated among ancient boulders and surrounded by flora and fauna of the countryside. Years ago, the flat oyster became popular and made Cancale a symbol of the finest oyster - so much so that in 1845 over 10,000 tons of oysters were harvested and sold throughout France. Eventually, with the environmental depletion of the natural beds, the people of Cancale began to farm flat oysters. Now the Cancalaise cultivate creuse (concave) oysters which are less sensitive to disease and temperature fluctuations. More


Martinique Summer '09 Culinary Escapade



Martinique's renowned epicurean delights are the focus of a new escorted package created by Tour de Forks. Slated for August 26-31, the six-day/five-night Martinique Culinary Escapade package provides an in-depth introduction to Martinique's vibrant gastronomic traditions led by culinary travel writer, Chantal Martineau. The package highlights include:
. Elegant accommodations at the Maison d'Hotes Plein Soleil, one of Martinique's newest hotels de charme
. Private tours and rum tastings at the historic 18th century Clement distillery and the AOC designated Neisson Distillery
. Culinary demonstration at Plein Soleil with the property's Executive Chef, Nathanael Ducteil, former apprentice to celebrity chef, Alain Ducasse
. Excursion to Martinique's famed Marche Couvert or covered market with Chef Ducteil
. Full day catamaran excursion to Josephine's Bathtub, the sandbar that according to legend was frequented by Napoleon's Creole wife, Empress Josephine More

Brett Ottolenghi
ArtisanalFoods.com

As the truism states, you can choose your friends but not your relatives. However, Tour de Forks' president Melissa Joachim recently "discovered" a relative that she would choose as a friend - fellow foodie, and founder of Artisanal Foods, Brett Ottolenghi. It's a fun story.

On a flight home from South Africa, Melissa was browsing through an issue of Vanity Fair when a piece about a young man who started hunting and selling truffles at age 13, caught her eye. She read on with interest about how his passion for fine - and exotic foods - grew over the years, and led to the founding of a specialty food business that purveys to leading chefs and foodies. "Ottolenghi?" Melissa wondered if Brett could be a relative as her family tree included Ottolenghis from the Italian town of Livorno. Back in New York, and a few emails later, they happily determined that they could indeed be "long lost cousins."



They met last month when Brett came to New York with his parents, Arturo and Hannah, who own a beautiful winery, Hauser Estate in Gettysburg. And the venue for the family reunion? Fittingly, The Fancy Food Show. The Forks love ArtisanalFoods.com, which offers over 200 carefully selected items and are exploring ways to collaborate. Brett's research is extensive and he travels the world to identify small producers who use traditional techniques to maximize flavor. Do visit the website. You'll find wonderful olive oils - including one by Marques de Valdueza used by many Michelin three-star restaurants - vinegars, artisanal meats and cheeses, 22 teas - and of course, truffles.


A Taste of Tasmania:


In case you are of a mind that an epicurean adventure in Australia might be just about "shrimp on the bar-b" ( Remember that?) - au contrair. Although there is indeed shrimp, the wealth of seafood is amazing; plump oysters, abalone, and as writer Victoria Mather of Tatler Magazine vividly describes "crayfish as big as cats".

We would love to help you plan a foodie's vacation, and we heartily recommend the island of Tasmania. We have developed an exciting 6 Night/7 Day package in conjunction with Tourism Tasmania that includes two-night stays at a trio of fabulous properties; The Red Feather Inn, Henry James Art Hotel and Tarraleah Lodge, - and a week's car rental. Once clients book the package, - A Taste of Tasmania - we will consult on any number of exceptional experiences, cooking lessons and demonstrations, wine tastings and restaurant reservations. We can make additional travel arrangements throughout the region as well for those who want a longer stay.

The US Dollar is strong in Australia, making a vacation there a great value. Competition from new carriers has resulted in record low airfares. V Australia, Virgin Blue's new long-haul carrier, started service in February between Los Angeles and Sydney and Delta debuts a new trans-Pacific flight (linking LA and Sydney) on July 1, 2009 and is offering a launch fare of $499 from Los Angeles to Sydney for travel between July and September 21, 2009. Passengers on the Sydney-LA service can remain on the same plane and continue to Atlanta, Delta's main hub. Other airlines like Qantas and United are offering similar bargains with add-ons from New York City. More info here